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they were dumped here by retreating ice. A black cormorant, wings outstretched to dry, was silhouetted against the horizon. The only hotel is on South Koster in the village of Ekenäs. I was fortunate that the afternoon ride was on the flat.


North Koster, even smaller than its neighbour, is separated from it by just a few yards of water. Travel facts (, ) offers a self-guided walking holiday on Sweden's west coast from 995, including six nights' B B accommodation, five dinners, route notes and maps, return internal enköping gamla enda man söker yngre man för 50 relation rail/boat travel from Gothenburg and return ferry to South Koster. The free sex xxx massage mariestad Vitlycke Museum, a Unesco World Heritage Site at Tanum on the mainland, preserves a massive granite slab decorated by craftsmen who would have had the waves lapping at their feet when they carved the pictures 3,000 years ago. These seascapes of barren rock have changed dramatically over the centuries. 'She loved the peace and quiet there. In the main square below stands a bronze statue of the most famous local resident, the iconic Hollywood film star Ingrid Bergman, who lived on the nearby island of Dannholmen for nearly 20 years before her death in 1982. On these specks of land there is no traffic except for the occasional tractor. They were once owned by the pilots who led ships to harbour through the jumble of skerries and reefs. I joined a group of children placing a sheet of paper over the outlines and rubbing it with carbon paper to find the form of a man emerging as if by magic. The carvings show images of whales and stick-men on boats and are so faint they have been painted red by archaeologists. Pretty lanes lined with traditional wooden houses wind up the hillside above a sheltered bay. These far-flung islands feel impossibly remote with their wave-lashed cliffs and stormy seas. Sitting on the private balcony on the first evening, I watched oystercatchers prise open shells with long orange bills while Arctic terns circled overhead, diving headlong into the sea to catch their supper. I crossed on a little chain-ferry resembling a yellow bus shelter. Nearby on the coast lies the old fishing village of Fjällbacka, now a popular yachting centre. There are some 8,000 islands scattered like confetti off the west coast, and only a few are inhabited. Archive photos in the museum show their families, who lived in total isolation. My rooms looked out over the quayside to a wooded promontory beyond.



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Even in mid-summer I could barely stand against the blustery wind as I took an exhilarating walk along the cliffs. Star resident: Ingrid Bergman spent 20 years living on the island of Dannholmen. There is little accommodation except for a simple guesthouse where Annika welcomed me like one of the family. On my last morning I was up at dawn to hike to the Pilot's Look-Out. Wives and children were left alone for weeks at a time and in winter the sea froze over.

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Balancing act: The cliff behind Fjällbacka, above left, and the pretty harbour, right. It was an idyllic moment. Small red cabins are dotted across the stark landscape. And that favourite is not just one place, but many. Torbjörn, a local guide, took us up through a narrow slit in the cliffs. It was early June and I had the island virtually to myself. My companion on the train had got it spot. I gazed across a sparkling blue sea to a sliver of sand where harbour seals were basking in the early morning sunshine and performing acrobatic leaps through the waves. Strait across: Wendy boards the ferry from South to North Koster.